It was cloudy and dark when I woke up in the heart of the Tatra Mountains before sunrise. Driving from my home in Warsaw the previous day, I was weary from sitting in the car for hours. Rysy, Poland’s highest mountain, nestled on granite cliffs on the Poland and Slovakia border is a strenuous, eleven mile (one-way), via ferrata ascent, overlooking some of Poland's most beautiful lakes. The first part of the hike, 9km, took us along a concrete road where horse-pulled carriages went up and down to gather people for an easier ride to Morskie Oko (Eye of the Sea), the grandest lake in the mountain range. Thousands of people would hike or carriage-ride to Morskie Oko that day; only a handful would actually decide to attempt the summit. Once at the lake, we started our hike up to the upper lake, Czarny Staw (Black Pond). After passing both lakes, there is a long rocky trail until the first via ferrata section. At first, the fog obscured any views, but a few moments later, the clouds drifted away and the magnificent sights appeared. All day, the fog drifted in and out, providing a mysterious and ever-changing atmosphere. Climbing at a steep angle and using chains for support was new and challenging to me. With my Dad's expertise and advice, I quickly adjusted and enjoyed the new type of climbing. Tomorrow, I would be climbing the hardest via ferrata route in Poland,Orla Perć, so Rysy was good practice Although I was delighted to have reached the summit, I was disappointed by the clouds obscuring the views and the large amount of tourists occupying every yard of the peak. A white pole with a red stripe represented this country's highpoint. I sat on it and contemplated how I was the highest person in Poland for that moment. With still plenty of time left, my dad, brother, and I decided to step into the Slovakian side of the peak and then continued the descent back the same trail we had ascended. It was troubling at first to get the hang of going backwards down the mountain, lowering myself while gripping the chains, my chest to the mountain. A long road back awaited us as we approached Czarny Staw. I loved the feeling of accomplishment and learning something new at the end of the hike; I felt ready for the upcoming difficulties of the next day.
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PolandWiktoria Plawska Archives
July 2014
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